10. What chemicals are bad for my rope?
It is best to assume that all chemicals are bad for your rope. Do not expose your nylon or polyester ropes to chemicals. That said, much recent data has been collected regarding how substances affect rope life. Data available from Honeywell Corporation (makers of nylon 6, polyester and Spectra(R) ) shows that nylon's strength is not greatly affected by motor oil, mineral oil, salt water, Freon, gasoline, kerosene, benzene, chloroform, paints, pine oils, or insect repellents containing DEET. Chemicals that should be avoided at all costs are bleach and sulfuric acid. Still even with this reassurance it is best to protect your rope from any exposure to any acids or alkalis and to store your rope in a cool dry environment.
11. What's the difference between a bipattern and bicolor?
Bipattern ropes have a pattern shift in the middle of the rope. Neither the color nor yarns change. BiColors are produced by changing the yarns in the pattern to a different color yarn at the middle of the rope by using an air splice technique.
12. Why does my BiColor rope have fuzzy bumpy yarns at the middle mark?
Air Splices are those fuzzy bumpy spots. An air splice is the joining of two yarn ends by means of high-pressure air forced around the ends causing them to entwine and snarl together. Air splices are essential to join strands into usable lengths. From a life safety perspective two yarns air spliced together test out to be 50% stronger than continuous straight fibers because they have twice as much yarn in the section that is air spliced.
13. What length rope should I buy?
A 50m rope was the standard until about 10 years ago. Changes in sport climbing route development created the need for longer ropes and the advancements in yarn technology allowed for longer lighter, skinnier ropes. These attributes have led to longer (70M, 80M, and in some cases 100M ropes) and skinnier (9.6mm, 9.5mm, 9.3mm, 8.3mm, 8.2mm, 7.6mm) single, half, and twin ropes. Also longer ropes allow for the worn ends to be cut and still be a useful rope - i.e. 60M rope shortened to 55m, due to the abuse from repeated short sport climbing falls.
50 meter: Shorter crags or alpine terrain where a lead rope is necessary without the weight of a 60 meter.
60 meter: This is the standard length for a rope today. Great all around versatility for longer trad and sport routes. More advanced climbers are using skinny (9.7mm and below) 60 meter ropes on long multi-pitch and trad routes for light and fast ascents.
70 meter: Slowly becoming a more common size. Great for long sport routes where a 60 isn't quite enough for the lower or for linking shorter pitches on trad climbs.
Next time we will continue to work on answering Frequently Asked Questions.
Until next time, be safe and always dress your knots!
STERLING ROPE and AHS Rescue